January 2026 Freeze Event
Pool Protection Guide

Updated 1/21/26 at 3pm: We have hard freeze conditions coming to the Dallas area this weekend with lows in the teens.


As we are visiting your pool this week, we are inspecting any freeze issues that are possible to get ahead of for your specific pool and equipment. Obviously we can only maintain the equipment your pool has installed, but you can be confident that we are taking a careful and detailed approach to make sure your pool is set up to the best of its ability to survive this multi-day freeze event without sustaining preventable damage.


FIRST THINGS FIRST

1. Top off your water level to mid-skimmer (halfway up the opening). Do this before your hoses freeze. Water expands when it freezes, and you want enough in there to handle it. This is the cause of over 90% of issues - make certain you have plenty of water in your pool. Rapid temperature drops evaporate water MUCH quicker than people think. Your pool will be warmer than the air, which turns water to vapor through evaporative cooling and can drop your water level more in a few hours than it may lose during a standard 2 or 3 week period. No/low water in pool leads to pump and plumbing damage, especially during a freeze.

2. Clean out your skimmer and pump baskets. Remove any leaves or debris so water can flow freely. Water movement is your pool's best friend during a freeze like this.



FREEZE PROTECTION MODE

We only have one client that does not have freeze protect mode built into their system (don't worry, we have already contacted that person so it probably isn't you). When temps drop to around 34-38°F, your pump should kick on automatically and run continuously. That's what it is designed to do - moving water doesn't freeze.


Let it run. Don't turn it off, don't override it. Most freeze damage we see happens when someone turns the system off thinking they're helping.


No automatic freeze protection or you notice your pool not circulating water? Just run your pump manually and keep it running 24/7 until we're above freezing again. Please let us know so we can visit you as soon as possible.


DO NOT run your heater during the freeze. Heaters can crack in sub-freezing temps. Just keep the water moving with your pump - that's enough.


IF POWER GOES OUT

This is when things usually get more serious. If you lose electricity:


  • 1. Turn off the breaker to your pool equipment (prevents damage if power surges back)


  • 2. Drain your equipment:

    • Remove pump lid and drain plugs

    • Open filter drain valve

    • If you have a heater, remove its drain plugs

    • Open the air relief valve on top of your filter

    • Set any multiport valves to a 45° angle so water can drain both ways


  • 3. Put all those drain plugs in the pump basket so you don't lose them


  • 4. Wrap exposed pipes and equipment with whatever you have - towels, blankets, foam pipe covers, even pool noodles work.


  • 5. Drop empty plastic bottles in your pool and skimmers. These give ice something to push against besides your pool walls and equipment.


When power comes back: Don't turn anything on until temps are above freezing and you've put all the drain plugs back in place.


FAQ

"If my power goes out, is my pool guaranteed to be damaged?"

No. Your pool water takes time to freeze - in-ground pools especially, because the ground insulates them. The pool itself will probably be fine. What's at risk is your equipment - pumps, filters, heaters, and exposed plumbing. That's why we tell you to drain everything immediately if power fails.

The 2021 freeze taught us that pools can survive extended outages if you act fast. Most of the damage we saw that year happened to equipment that wasn't drained, or to systems where owners didn't know to take action. Follow the steps above and your equipment will make it through.


"What if ice is forming on my pool surface? Should I break it up?"

A thin layer of ice on top is normal and not a problem. What you want to prevent is ice blocking your skimmers or forming a solid sheet across the whole pool. Break up ice around the skimmer openings so water can still flow through. You can also aim your return jets upward to create surface movement - that helps prevent ice from forming in the first place.

Those floats and bottles we mentioned? They're there to give ice something to expand against instead of your tile line or pool walls. Don't stress about surface ice too much - focus on keeping your equipment safe.


"My pool has automatic freeze protection. Do I still need to do anything?"

Verify it's working. When temps hit the mid-30s, your pump should turn on automatically. Go check. If it's not running when it should be, switch to manual and run it continuously.

Most freeze protection systems will cycle between pool and spa (if you have one) to protect both. You might hear valves switching - that's normal. The key is making sure water is moving through all your plumbing. If you're not sure your freeze protect is working right, don't wait - just run the pump manually.


"Should I run my heater to keep the water from freezing?"

No. Pool heaters aren't designed to run in sub-freezing air temperatures. The heat exchanger can crack, and that's an expensive repair. Running your pump is enough - moving water won't freeze. If you want to retain heat in the pool, use a cover, but don't run the heater.


"What about my spa, waterfall, or in-floor cleaning system?"

If your freeze protection cycles water through these automatically, you're covered. Most systems do this by rotating valves every so often.

Separate pumps for waterfalls or spa jets: either run them periodically (15 minutes every few hours) or drain them like we described for the main equipment. Don't let water sit still in any pump or line.


Pool cleaner: You don't need to run it during the freeze. Just make sure the cleaner hose is fully submerged in the pool, or remove it entirely. Don't leave part of it hanging out of the water where it can freeze.


"Should I cover my pool?"

It can help but isn't required. A cover insulates the water and can keep it a few degrees warmer. If you have one, use it only if it does not prevent the flow of water to any waterfalls or pool features. If you don't, you'll be fine as long as your pump is running. Don't put a cover on after ice has already formed - you could damage the cover.


"Is freeze damage covered by my warranty or insurance?"

Usually it is not. Manufacturer warranties consider freeze damage preventable and won't cover it. Your homeowners insurance might cover some resulting damage depending on your policy, but don't assume without checking it specifically or calling them. Bottom line: an hour of prep now beats a $2,000+ repair later.


BOTTOM LINE

Keep water levels to mid-skimmer line and keep water moving through your system. That's 90% of freeze protection. If power fails, drain your equipment immediately. Most damage happens when people either don't know what to do or wait too long to act.

Questions? Call us. We're monitoring this and will be available to help!

Updated 1/21/26 at 3pm: We have hard freeze conditions coming to the Dallas area this weekend with lows in the teens.


As we are visiting your pool this week, we are inspecting any freeze issues that are possible to get ahead of for your specific pool and equipment. Obviously we can only maintain the equipment your pool has installed, but you can be confident that we are taking a careful and detailed approach to make sure your pool is set up to the best of its ability to survive this multi-day freeze event without sustaining preventable damage.


FIRST THINGS FIRST

1. Top off your water level to mid-skimmer (halfway up the opening). Do this before your hoses freeze. Water expands when it freezes, and you want enough in there to handle it. This is the cause of over 90% of issues - make certain you have plenty of water in your pool. Rapid temperature drops evaporate water MUCH quicker than people think. Your pool will be warmer than the air, which turns water to vapor through evaporative cooling and can drop your water level more in a few hours than it may lose during a standard 2 or 3 week period. No/low water in pool leads to pump and plumbing damage, especially during a freeze.


2. Clean out your skimmer and pump baskets. Remove any leaves or debris so water can flow freely. Water movement is your pool's best friend during a freeze like this.



FREEZE PROTECTION MODE

We only have one client that does not have freeze protect mode built into their system (don't worry, we've already contacted them so it probably isn't you). When temps drop to around 34-38°F, your pump should kick on automatically and run continuously. That's what it is designed to do - moving water so it doesn't freeze.


Let it run. Don't turn it off, don't override it. Most freeze damage we see happens when someone turns the system off thinking they're helping.


No automatic freeze protection or you notice your pool not circulating water? Just run your pump manually and keep it running 24/7 until we're above freezing again. Please let us know so we can visit you as soon as possible.


DO NOT run your heater during the freeze. Heaters can crack in sub-freezing temps. Just keep the water moving with your pump - that's enough.


IF POWER GOES OUT

This is when things usually get more serious. If you lose electricity:


  • 1. Turn off the breaker to your pool equipment (prevents damage if power surges back)


  • 2. Drain your equipment:

    • Remove pump lid and drain plugs

    • Open filter drain valve

    • If you have a heater, remove its drain plugs

    • Open the air relief valve on top of your filter

    • Set any multiport valves to a 45° angle so water can drain both ways


  • 3. Put all those drain plugs in the pump basket so you don't lose them


  • 4. Wrap exposed pipes and equipment with whatever you have - towels, blankets, foam pipe covers, even pool noodles work.


  • 5. Drop empty plastic bottles in your pool and skimmers. These give ice something to push against besides your pool walls and equipment.


When power comes back: Don't turn anything on until temps are above freezing and you've put all the drain plugs back in place.


FAQ

"If my power goes out, is my pool guaranteed to be damaged?"


No. Your pool water takes time to freeze - in-ground pools especially, because the ground insulates them. The pool itself will probably be fine. What's at risk is your equipment - pumps, filters, heaters, and exposed plumbing. That's why we tell you to drain everything immediately if power fails.


The 2021 freeze taught us that pools can survive extended outages if you act fast. Most of the damage we saw that year happened to equipment that wasn't drained, or to systems where owners didn't know to take action. Follow the steps above and your equipment will make it through.


"What if ice is forming on my pool surface? Should I break it up?"


A thin layer of ice on top is normal and not a problem. What you want to prevent is ice blocking your skimmers or forming a solid sheet across the whole pool. Break up ice around the skimmer openings so water can still flow through. You can also aim your return jets upward to create surface movement - that helps prevent ice from forming in the first place.

Those floats and bottles we mentioned? They're there to give ice something to expand against instead of your tile line or pool walls. Don't stress about surface ice too much - focus on keeping your equipment safe.


"My pool has automatic freeze protection. Do I still need to do anything?"


Verify it's working. When temps hit the mid-30s, your pump should turn on automatically. Go check. If it's not running when it should be, switch to manual and run it continuously.

Most freeze protection systems will cycle between pool and spa (if you have one) to protect both. You might hear valves switching - that's normal. The key is making sure water is moving through all your plumbing. If you're not sure your freeze protect is working right, don't wait - just run the pump manually.


"Should I run my heater to keep the water from freezing?"


No. Pool heaters aren't designed to run in sub-freezing air temperatures. The heat exchanger can crack, and that's an expensive repair. Running your pump is enough - moving water won't freeze. If you want to retain heat in the pool, use a cover, but don't run the heater.


"What about my spa, waterfall, or in-floor cleaning system?"


If your freeze protection cycles water through these automatically, you're covered. Most systems do this by rotating valves every so often.

Separate pumps for waterfalls or spa jets: either run them periodically (15 minutes every few hours) or drain them like we described for the main equipment. Don't let water sit still in any pump or line.


Pool cleaner: You don't need to run it during the freeze. Just make sure the cleaner hose is fully submerged in the pool, or remove it entirely. Don't leave part of it hanging out of the water where it can freeze.


"Should I cover my pool?"


It can help but isn't required. A cover insulates the water and can keep it a few degrees warmer. If you have one, use it only if it does not prevent the flow of water to any waterfalls or pool features. If you don't, you'll be fine as long as your pump is running. Don't put a cover on after ice has already formed - you could damage the cover.


"Is freeze damage covered by my warranty or insurance?"


Usually it is not. Manufacturer warranties consider freeze damage preventable and won't cover it. Your homeowners insurance might cover some resulting damage depending on your policy, but don't assume without checking it specifically or calling them. Bottom line: an hour of prep now beats a $2,000+ repair later.


BOTTOM LINE

Keep water levels to mid-skimmer line and keep water moving through your system. That's 90% of freeze protection. If power fails, drain your equipment immediately. Most damage happens when people either don't know what to do or wait too long to act.


Questions? Call us. We're monitoring this and will be available to help!